I have a VW Golf 5, but due to my mistake, the original ecu is dead, and I found another one. I want to use my KTAG high tech tool to read out the data from original ecu, then copy to the replacement unit.
This is original ecu (last four digits is 6383)
This is another replacement unit (last four digits is 7000)
The part numbers between two ECUs are the same also the borsch number is the same, but two numbers are different, I don’t know what exactly this number means. Maybe it’s the software version.
I have no problems with the immobilizer data in anything else, I should be able to connect the replacement unit to the car and without programming plug-and-play, I do this also because have no login code for this replacement unit.
Now open the ECU, unluckily I have no bdm frame, I have to hold this connector with my fingers download, I don’t like it but I have no other choice.
At the moment, let’s go to the KTAG V2.23 software to select the car-Volkswagen Golf 5,
I know this is the correct protocol ok. Make a full backup.
Now I should have three hands I hope I connected right. Yes! By the way I’m electric shock? Grounded when i touch such sensitive electronics, this is a really good idea to do.
It so bad for the first look, but… it works ok! So let’s doing thing and I have to wait now and I hope my fingers don’t sleep until it’s finished. Ok, job is done! i have to wait…
now let’s write the data back to the replacement unit, it starts writing…write successfully.
My figures are hard, i have to buy a bdm frame…
Then need to re-seal the ecu
I use the material from Mita, this is for car body repairs it’s a very long life and elastic material which is weather resistant extreme conditions very good stuff and for the heat surface heat sink surface here, I use two component conductive, it comes from the PC industry but I’ve made this and let’s apply this now, let the seal dry for about 12+h, then put back in the car.
BTY…It’s a good idea to check the VIN inside the ECU to conform a successful programming