I received my MINI VCI cable from http://www.cardiagtool.co.uk/cheapest-mini-vci-for-toyota.html and I added a used Smart Key using Techstream and a Immobilizer Reset (requires SEED code).
I spent an hour or so trying out a number of different things, but no dice. I tried:
-I left the battery out of the Smart Key for weeks (while I waited for the cable).
I thought perhaps it would clear or lose its memory and behave like a new key, but no such luck.
-I tried using the “Smart Code Registration (Classic)” and “Smart Code Registration” modes under all regions (NA, Europe, Other) and none of them would accept the used key.
I tried variations such as trying the used key first (which won’t even beep), leaving the used key pressed against the button (constant beeping), as well as only having one key in the car at a time. It always resulted in a “fail”.
-I tried finding a similar function under other menu options, but none of them were for the Smart Key.
There were some other posts I found where there were functions to register the key under two places (Immobilizer and Main Body), where the key would be accepted in one but not the other, resulting in a key that half-worked in a limited capacity (I believe the wireless functions wouldn’t work nor could it unlock the car, but it could start it if pressed against the button). In my model (2010 RAV4) and Techstream version (9.30.002), there were no such options.
-I was tempted to try erasing the key forcibly by trying to figure out how to do it (strong magnet? UV light for EEPROM? etc.) but I didn’t bother anymore since I didn’t want to risk damaging the key and it wasn’t worth $15 (which is what I ended up paying for the SEED code).
Once you have everything ready to go, start your car and launch Techstream. Leave the driver’s door OPEN for the entire duration.
Click “Connect to Vehicle”
Note: As the procedure I’m running through takes about 20 minutes total, its recommended to have the car running to ensure the battery doesn’t drain out. If you can’t start the car, its mentioned in other bulletins to have the car hooked up to a backup battery
Techstream should automatically detect your car (mine was a 2010 RAV4, ignore the details in the image, its just for reference), except for an option or two (I had to indicate “/w Smart Key” functionality and that my car was “2WD”)
After a while, you will arrive at the System Select page. I suggest you copy-paste your VIN# to Windows notepad so that you have it handy later (applicable for used Smart Key registration only)
All of the ECUs will be yellow. You can click “Health Check” to have Techstream go through each of the ECUs and determine its status, which takes a few minutes and will change their colour. If you decide to skip the “Health Check”, you can still click on the individual ECU you’re looking for and it will read only that specific ECU (you’ll be waiting a few seconds instead of minutes, its basically the same as the “Health Check”, but only for that ECU).
The ECU I needed was labelled “Smart Key” (2010 RAV4, if your vehicle differs, so may your options)
Once in there, select “Utility” on the left-hand side and you will arrive at this screen.
NEW SMART KEY
Now, if you had a NEW Smart Key, the process is relatively straight forward. You can simply click on the “Smart Code Registration” option, which there are 2 of. Both options work, the Classic is older and has less explanations, while the new one has more text and is more user-friendly.
The steps basically consist of; 1.) only have 1 Smart Key in the car at a time, 2.) first start with the Master Key (existing key) and tap it on the ignition button, 3.) remove the key (more than 1 meter from the car) and bring the NEW Smart Key inside, tap it on the ignition button. 4.) Place the NEW Smart Key on the passenger seat until prompted otherwise. 5.) Done.
All of the steps need to be done within 30 seconds of each other, as indicated on the screen (there will be a counter counting down).
USED SMART KEY
The only option that appears to work is the “Smart Code Reset” function. I tried a number of different things but I couldn’t get the used Smart Key to register under any of them except this one (which requires a SEED code, $)
Within the “Smart Code Reset” function, you will arrive at this screen.
You can click on the “Get Pass-Code” button, which will take you to another screen that allows you to copy the 96-digit SEED code (the first one doesn’t seem to let you copy, despite being able to click on it).
Do not close the Techstream window that has the SEED code displayed (the first one).Techstream generates a new SEED code every time you enter the function, so if you close out of it, you lose that session. If you re-enter it, a new SEED code will be supplied and any SEED passcode you received from a calculator will be useless (you can’t re-open a previous session).
NOTE: While you may read in Techstream that its recommended to avoid having wireless devices such are cell phones or your PC’s WiFi on when registering Smart Keys, I had my laptop with WiFi turned on for the entire process and didn’t encounter any issues or interference. With respect to supplying a calculator with your VIN# and SEED code, I would highly recommended that you do all of it through copy-paste instead of manually typing. This would help you avoid any unintentional typos (as that would end up costing you money for a new SEED passcode).
You now need to go to one of those “calculator” websites I mentioned (www.Pin-Online.net (was $15 USD) or www.weboctopus.nl (25EUR for 5 codes) and paste your VIN# and SEED number. When I used weboctopus.nl, the 6-digit passcode was generated instantly.
Reminder #1: Do not close the Techstream window that has the SEED code displayed (the first one).
You can then go back into Techstream and paste the code in.
Reminder #2: Remember to leave the driver’s side door OPEN. Do not close it as it will interrupt the reset procedure. If the function fails for whatever reason, DO NOT CLOSE THE DRIVER’S DOOR. You may still be able to try again or carry through with the remaining steps successfully (other post’s have reported so).
You will then arrive at this screen, where you simply wait for 16 minutes.
I suggest you stay nearby (I was playing a game on my phone) and set an alarm a minute before you expect the timer to end and avoid touching or moving anything (I left the laptop on the car seat and sat on the ground outside, most specifically because my particular cable was defective and had a loose connection, so I wanted to avoid any movement that may risk losing the connection).
Once the timer ends, it will tell you the procedure is complete (successfully)… but you’re not done yet!
In order to register your keys, you now need to select one of the other options (I chose “Smart Code Registration (Classic)”).
Note #1: Previously, if you used this function, you’d choose the first option (“I am just registering keys”) but it would fail if you were trying to register a used Smart Key. Now you will select the third option instead.
Note #2: In case you’re curious, choosing the third option before performing the “Smart Code Reset” will simply result in an error before you even get to load the function. It will produce a message to the effect of “Cannot initialize, reset function not detected”.
(ignore the locksmith bit, I couldn’t find a better picture but will try to upload another one, with the correct option selected)
Here, you will select the third and longest option “I am Registering keys and have replaced the ID Code Box and Smart ECU or have performed Smart Code Reset”
When you hit next, you will be asked to eventually tap the key on the ignition button. It has been recommended by other users that the USED key be tapped first and any existing (previously linked) keys to be tapped last.
After this is done, you can click “Register” to finalize the session.
The end of the process was somewhat lacking in celebration. I wasn’t expecting the program to serve me champagne, but I expected there to be something more or another way to test the Smart Keys were accepted (before turning off the car or closing the driver’s side door and being surprised later) but I didn’t encounter anything.
What you can do as a brief check is to use the “Communication Check (Key Diag Mode)” option. I checked with the rear oscillator to see that the key is communicating properly (it will beep if so). Before the sync, the used Smart Key did not produce a beep from the car at all when in proximity of the selected oscillator. Once it was paired, it DID produce a beep when you took the key near the rear oscillator. You could select any oscillator but the rear one is the furthest one away from the driver, so I used that one to avoid any confusion with my existing key.
I hope this is helpful.